The factory braking system on the C5 Corvette is
extremely competent and satisfactory for almost every situation,
The problem is that Corvette gear heads are never content with
something that is labeled competent or satisfactory.
The rotors on the C5 perform great but are no match when compared to
the slotted and cross drilled rotors that are standard equipment on the
ZO6. Drilled and slotted rotors will impart the final boy racer look to
your Vette. The only problem is that a quality after market set of
rotors can cost an arm and a leg.
So how do you get the great looks of quality cross drilled and slotted
rotors while at the same time keeping the cost within reason? The
answer may surprise you,
our friends at AC/Delco will come to the rescue. The rescue comes in
the form of OEM cross drilled and slotted rotors. These are the same
rotors that were standard equipment on the C5 ZO6. The front rotors are
12.6' in diameter and can be order under AC/Delco PN#'S
18A1079, 18A1080. The rears are 11.8" in diameter and can be ordered
under AC/Delco PN#'S 18A1081, 18A1082.
As previously mentioned these OEM units will let you have your cake and
eat it too. They offer extremely high quality at an affordable price.
After some browsing the internet for a good price we stumbled on an
Ebay store, ThePartsLadi, located in Destin Florida, that
offered a brand new factory package for $399. Wait it gets better, they
threw in a complete set of AC/Delco Durastop
ceramic pads (AC/Delco PN#'S 17D731CH, 17D732CH) for free. These pads
usually retail for about $180 a set. Add to that a low shipping charge
and you have a good deal. The rotors and pads were delivered within
three days of the order placement.
When placing the order we did not mention who we were, this excellent
service is just how the company conducts business.
This project can be successfully completed by any novice gear head with
a minimum of hassle. The following equipment is needed fro the
A low profile hydraulic race jack. A lift will make life much easier.
Unlike the other mags we try to do all of our projects without the use
of a lift as very few of our reader have access to one.
A good set of tools that include a 1" drive breaker bar and 19mm
A large C clamp
A tube of Locktite
A wire clothes hanger
A can of spray brake parts cleanser
A can of new brake fluid
Your wife's turkey baster
Begin the project by inspecting your new rotors, make sure they are
free from any manufacturing defects such as casting cracks of obvious
warpage. Spray each rotor with brake cleaner and wipe off all shipping
oil and gunk.
Jack up the car, make sure you place safety stands
under the chassis. Remove the wheel. You can start at the front or
rear. If you start the project in the front make sure you complete the
front before you move to the rear.
Open the cap on the master cylinder. Using your wife's turkey baster
suck some brake fluid out of the reservoir. This is to prevent the
fluid from overflowing when the caliper pistons are compressed. Don't
let the fluid drip on anything as it is extremely caustic.
Place a large screwdriver between the inner brake pad and the caliper
and force the pad back. This will retract the caliper piston to allow
the removal of the caliper assembly from the old rotor.
Using a breaker bar and a 19mm socket remove the
upper caliper retaining bolt. Loop a wire clothes hanger through the
caliper bolt retaining hole and secure the caliper to a suspension
member. This will protect the rubber brake line from damage if you
accidentally drop the caliper.
Remove the lower retaining bolt. You can let the caliper hang from the
Remove the rotor by hitting it from behind with a hammer. Place the new
rotor on the hub, using an old lug nut secure it to the hub.
Prepare the new brake pads by applying a thin layer of PTFE silicone on
the backside of the pad. The silicone is supplied as part of th brake
package. It minimizes the chance of pad squealing.
Place a large C clamp on the inner brake pad and
force the pad back into the caliper. Remove the old pads from the
caliper and insert the new pads into the caliper assembly. Put a drop
of locktite on both caliper bolts.
Position the caliper on the new rotor starting from the bottom. Insert
and tighten the bottom bolt and then the top bolt.
Slap the wheel back on and move to the other side of the car. The rest
of the rotor replacements will go a lot smoother now that you got the
hang of it. After you finish refill the master cylinder with some fresh
fluid and replace the cap.
Pump the brakes and make sure you have a hard pedal. Drive your car
around the block a few times stopping the car every fifty feet. This
will bed the new pads into the rotors. Take it easy for the next few
miles to finish the pad bedding process.